Espetos in Benalmádena, a taste of Málaga by the Mediterranean

Some flavours can tell you a lot about a place with just a few ingredients. In Benalmádena Costa, all it takes is a boat filled with sand, a few cane skewers set beside glowing embers and the smell of sardines grilling by the Mediterranean.

The espeto is as much a part of Málaga’s coastal scenery as it is of its cuisine. It goes hand in hand with chiringuitos, or beach restaurants, long lunches by the sea and the craft of the espeteros, who have passed down their grilling skills through generations. Trying one in Benalmádena is a way to discover one of the Costa del Sol’s best-known traditions.

What exactly is an espeto?

A traditional espeto is made by threading several sardines onto a cane skewer and grilling them beside hot embers. The same technique can be used for other fish, such as sea bream, sea bass or horse mackerel, though if you order an espeto at a Málaga beach restaurant, you’ll usually be served sardines.

All you need is fresh fish, salt and fire, but getting it right takes skill. The espetero has to thread the sardines without breaking them, position them correctly and keep them at just the right distance from the embers. The heat of the fire and the direction of the wind also matter, as too much heat or smoke can spoil the fish.

The skewers are planted in sand, often in old boats repurposed as grills. It’s a familiar sight along Málaga’s beaches and seafront promenades.

When to eat sardine espetos

Local tradition says sardines are best in the months whose Spanish names contain no letter ‘r’ (mayo, junio, julio and agosto), from May to August. It’s a simple rule of thumb tied to the fish’s natural cycle.

Sardines tend to be fattier during the warmer months, which makes them juicier and more flavourful when grilled beside the embers. Summer is the season most closely associated with espetos, though you can find them at other times of year too.

In Benalmádena Costa, you can enjoy them at lunchtime or as the sun goes down. Lunch overlooking the sea is the classic chiringuito experience. If you go for dinner, you can make an evening of it with a stroll along the promenade at sunset on a warm summer night.

How to eat an espeto

Espetos are best eaten hot, straight off the grill. Many people pick up the sardines with their fingers and gently pull the flesh away from the backbone. Cutlery works just as well, especially if it’s your first time trying them.

A squeeze of lemon adds a little freshness, but it’s worth tasting the sardines as they come first to appreciate the flavour of the fish, the salt and the fire.

Order an espeto as a starter, share one with the table or enjoy it with a salad, pescaíto frito (fried fish) and other local seafood dishes.

Wood, embers and a practised hand

The traditional method uses a wood fire. Olive wood, for example, produces hot embers and gives the fish a delicate aroma. You may come across other ways of preparing the fire, though cooking over wood is closely tied to the tradition’s fishing roots.

The way the sardines sit on the skewer matters too. The cane has to pass through each fish in just the right place so that the backbone holds the flesh together as it cooks. A skilled espetero can tell when to turn the sardines by watching the colour of the skin and judging how close they are to the embers.

A taste of Benalmádena by the sea

The sound of the waves, the sand-filled boats, the glow of the embers and the conversation around the table are all part of eating espetos in Benalmádena.

Find a chiringuito in Benalmádena Costa, order a freshly grilled espeto and enjoy a tradition that still tells the story of Málaga’s connection to the Mediterranean.